Wintertime Wines

By Andy Hale, CSW

 As the temperature drops and snow covers the ground, I find myself drinking less of my favorite crisp whites and rosés and switching more towards bigger, richer reds. Here are my wine suggestions that pair perfectly with cold weather and evenings by the fireplace.

Merlot

Yes, Merlot. I said it. Paul Giamatti may not be drinking any more of it but I am, and you should, too. It’s ideal for this time of year, and due to the bad press from the movie Sideways, they are being made better than ever. Merlot tastes like its half-sister, Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s just a little more fruit forward, softer and generally easier to drink. Try L’Ecole 41’s Merlot from Washington State, around $30. It is everything you like in Cabernet, but you don’t have to have a steak with it to tolerate the monstrous tannins.

I’m also drinking more Bordeaux these days, of which Merlot is the main varietal used. Sure, they can get expensive, but there are some decent ones at very good prices. Try Chateau Coulonge around $15 or for a real treat, try Pentimento around $30.

Port

For me, Port is practically a seasonal tradition. I drink it almost exclusively in the winter because a glass of it makes me feel hot. This dessert wine is sweet, rich, complex and boasts an impressive 20% alcohol, which will warm you up on those cold nights. 

Ruby Ports tend to be fruitier, darker and pretty affordable. They can also be a little simpler and straightforward. Tawny Ports are lighter and more complex, but they can get very expensive the older they are. I’d go for Quinta Noval’s 2014 Late Bottled Vintage. It’s around $30, but worth it!

Tempranillo

One of my happiest memories is drinking a gorgeous, old Rioja on a snowy Christmas night with a standing rib roast. It really couldn’t have been better. Tempranillo, the grape of Rioja, is a versatile wine that will pair with many heartier foods, but is very easy to drink on its own as well. They often see a good bit of oak too, which adds a toasty, spicy flavor. 

For a great Rioja, seek out El Domador del Valle’s Riserva. It has 6 years of bottle age and 2 years in oak. It’s outrageous that this wine is under $20! 

Valpolicella

Valpolicellas, the baby-sister to Italy’s big, bold Amarones, are great for this time of year. These are from West of Verona in North Eastern Italy, and can range from easy drinking and fruity, to big and bold and spicy. It is the second kind that I’m suggesting. 

Amarones start off as Valpolicellas, but then get their power and weight by drying the grapes out in barns, concentrating the grapey-goodness and making the wine richer than any wine grown in Europe has the right to be. But those will usually set you back $50 or much more. Fortunately, there is a third way to make Valpolicella, called Ripasso. These are aged on the leftover gunk from Amarone, and they pick up some of its richness and power. The best of these are partially dried out as well. 

Try the Bussola “Ca de Laito” Valpolicella Ripasso. It will set you back around $30, but it is so, so worth it. Rich, velvety, spicy and powerful. It will stand up to a steak dinner but you can drink it on its own, too.

Monastrell

AKA Mourvèdre. This spicy red is especially suited to cold nights when it comes from Jumilla, Spain. Big, plummy, spicy and just a little bit earthy, think of this one like a spicier, exotic version of Grenache. Try the Juan Gil Monastrell – it should be less than $20.

Cabernet Sauvignon

This one is probably pretty obvious, but there is definitely a reason that Cabernet is so popular. It’s big, brawny and powerful, and it is perfect for a rich dinner and sitting by the fire afterwards. I have been drinking more Cabs from Washington State recently. They aren’t as famous as the ones from California, and for that reason they are still very affordable. Sure, there are some very expensive ones out there, but overall, I feel like my money goes further when I’m shopping in the Pacific Northwest section.

 Recently, the winemakers from the famous Quilceda Creek winery in Washington State jumped ship and started working at the small, considerably more affordable, Matthews winery. I had a bottle of the Matthews Cabernet Sauvignon last night, around $30. It was like drinking a dark chocolate bar with cherry and plum flavors. It even snowed a little. I really couldn’t have asked for anything better!

 Andy Hale is a Certified Specialist of Wine and was a professional Sommelier in Charleston until he moved to Asheville. He is now the Wine Buyer and Education Director at Metro Wines.